Piece Comment

Summer and Smoke and Soup


For those a bit weary of "take one quarter cup..." food segments, the Cook's Notebook puts the sensuality back into chopping, searing and savoring. This segment catches Ali cooking cold soups on a warm summer evening to escape the heat of the day, and she peppers, flecks, speckles and braces her essay with verbs that bring you right to the edge of the pot. We feel the heat from that lone gas burner, then feel her cool down as she spices up cool cucumbers and yoghurt by the light of the moon, menaced by rumble of thunder. This is summer in a segment, unearthing memories as well as the sensual rituals of seasonal cooking.